We ate dinner on the train. Emmeline, you know the train cars we see outside of Queen City Bakery? There is a dining car on our train that has tables just like a restaurant, and people bring you food. Everyone eats with chopsticks, and watches the countryside slide by. Some people were playing cards and drinking. Bekah told me earlier in the day that people here really like a rènao atmosphere, which translates “hot and noisy,” and they had both in the dining car.

They also smoke a lot. The air was thick–I myself probably smoked 15 cigarettes with dinner, without ever having to hold, light or touch one personally. Quite a feat.

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